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The Art and Science of Bird Photography
The Art and Science of Bird Photography
Photography in general has been my hobby for the past 14 years. But
photographing Birds and Wildlife has been my passion for the last 3
years. The following article is a primer for those who are interested
in Bird Photography or for seasoned photographers who want to enter the
beautiful world of Bird Photography. The material is divided into
progressive categories based on my experience in the field, having
discussions with fellow bird photographers and with some help from the
internet.
1. Introduction to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent:
About 1,250 species of birds have been recorded in the Indian
Sub-Continent, including India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal
and Bhutan. Many of these birds are winter visitors to our country and
can be seen only during those specific months. There are other
categories of birds which are endemic to a particular region and also
those which are in the endangered list. The distribution of these birds
can be grouped by habitat, climate conditions, etc.
2. Choosing and using the right equipment:
It's very important that you have the right set of equipment for Bird
Photography. My advice to all the people who mail and ask me about the
equipment to buy for bird photography is, always buy the best you can
afford. The Digital Cameras, especially the DSLR's are making a strong
impression as of late. I moved from film SLR to DSLR mainly because of
the quality of image and the cumbersome effort needed to get the
film/slide processed and scanned. Not that you cannot get good quality
images from film SLR. But it's an individual choice. Now let's see what
kind of camera and lens you need for Bird Photography.
Camera:
Most of the bird photographers use 35mm SLR/DSLR bodies because of
their cost, ease of use and the speed of operation they provide.
Depending on your budget, I would advice you to go in for a decent
entry level or mid range SLR/DSLR and keep those extra rupees to invest
on lens, because that's where the quality of your image depends. Some
of the features in the camera I consider a necessity for bird
photography is:
1. Changeable lens option
Do not go in for an aim and shoot camera. Even though there are digital
cameras which have 10x optical zoom (reach of 400+ mm focal length),
they are not good for bird photography. You need a camera where you
have the flexibility to interchange lenses.
2. TTL metering and Exposure Modes
All the modern SLR/DSLR cameras offer TTL (Through The Lens) metering
capabilities. Make sure your camera has this feature. Another useful
feature in conjunction with the TTL is the availability of different
automatic exposure modes i.e Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority and
Program mode. For bird photography, it's very important to have good
shutter speed. Depending on the situation, you may have to work quickly
changing between these exposure modes and taking advantage of the TTL
metering.
3. Manual Exposure
This is a very useful exposure mode and is widely used by many
professionals who normally use light meters. Using this mode you can
override the camera settings and use your own aperture and shutter
speed.
4. Exposure Compensation Dial
The exposure suggested by the camera may not be correct all the time.
Or you may want to under expose or over expose your subject depending
on the situation. This is where the exposure compensation dial come in.
If your camera has suggested a meter reading of 1/250 sec for f8
aperture, and in case you want to under expose the image by a stop, you
can use the exposure compensation dial to change the exposure settings.
5. Shooting modes
You have continuous mode, single frame and Self Timer modes. Each of
these has its own advantages for bird photography. I normally keep my
camera in continuous mode as you never know when you come across some
action in nature.
6. Auto focus
The ability of the AF cameras to track the moving subjects and attain
accurate focus is a boon for action photography in case of birds
flying, running, swimming or any type of fast/slow movements.
7. Cropping factor for DSLRs
I would go in for a DSLR which has 1.3, 1.5 or a 1.6 cropping factor.
Depending on the tele lens you use, the effective focal length gets
magnified by the cropping factor and you get a longer reach. In case
you have 1.6x cropping factor and are using a 400mm lens, you get a FOV
(Field of View) of 640mm. This cropping factor is mainly due to the
sensor size.
Lens
This is a difficult topic. There is no single lens suitable for bird
photography. Serious bird photographers have a varied collection of
lenses for composing the images they have in mind. Let's look at the
different options we have:
Wide Angle lens (50mm and below)
This lens is just not enough to do bird photography. But it
does not mean they cannot be used at all. You can shoot Bird-Scapes or
a huge flock of birds flying across the sky. There are situations where
these lenses are very useful for doing remote photography.
Telephoto Lens (80mm to 300mm)
I have come across many beginners who start bird photography with their
75-300 zoom lens and get frustrated at the pics as the bird is a tiny
spec in the photograph. But the digital SLR's have an advantage. Most
of the DSLRs have a cropping factor associated with the camera because
of the sensor size. This effective focal length of the lens gets
multiplied by the cropping factor and they have a longer reach with the
lens. So a 300mm lens effectively becomes 480mm on a camera with 1.6
cropping factor.
But there are photographers who use a 300mm prime lens, either a f2.8
or a f4 lens and combine with a 1.4x or a 2x Tele Converters (devices
used to increase the effective focal length of the lens). These are
good combinations to get decent images in case of hand hold shooting.
Long Telephoto Lens (400mm and 500mm)
Now we are talking about bird photography lenses. Most of the
professionals and serious photographers use either a 400mm or a 500mm
lens coupled with a 1.4x or a 2x converter. It offers lovely, soft out
of focus background and makes the image pop up. The 400mm range lens
(except the f2.8 lens) is light enough to do hand held photography and
are preferred by many to shoot birds in flight. To use a 500mm lens you
need a sturdy tripod and a good head. Photographers over the world
normally use a Gitzo tripod with a ball head or a Gimbal head. The
combination of a camera + 500mm lens + TC + tripod would weight
anywhere between 5-10 Kgs.
Super Telephoto Lens (600mm - 800mm)
These are the costliest of the lens. Along with the cost, they have
their own disadvantages. They are heavy and are not easy to carry
around in the field. You need a sturdy tripod to handle this. You do
get the carbon fiber tripods from Gitzo which are light. But again,
they are extremely costly. They cannot focus on nearby birds without
the use of extension tubes. In spite of all these and other
disadvantages they are awesome equipments for bird photographers. You
can shoot the birds from a distance without disturbing them and yet get
close-up images.
Here's what I use in the field:
1. Canon EOS 10D DSLR Camera
2. Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS Lens
3. Canon EF 100mm f2.8 Macro lens
4. Canon EF 28-80 USM II Lens
5. Canon 1.4x II Tele Converter
6. JFR protective lens cover
7. Gitzo 1410 Tripod
8. Wimberly Gimbal Head
9. Lowepro Pro Trekker AW II
10. Alera CD Writer
11. 1 GB Sandisk Ultra II CF card
12. 1GB Transcend CF card
13. 512 MB Sandisk CF card
3. Know your Subject Well:
If you look at the many top bird photographers, apart from the good
technique they follow, they all have one thing in common. They are very
knowledgeable on the birds they shoot. It's very important to
understand the bird's behavior, their habitat and the timing and
pattern of their migration.
- Get to know the birds in your area.
- You may often find the same bird visiting the same place again and again.
- Seek out areas where birds have become relatively acclimated to the human presence.
- In our bird photography group, the
Hebbal Lake in Bangalore is well known for Purple Rumped Sunbirds and
Flower Peckers. We in fact call Hebbal the studio for these birds.
- Be familiar with what kind of birds is found in what habitat.
- Many of the birds are active early mornings and late evenings.
- Many birds are winter visitors to our country. Know when they arrive and what kind of habitat they frequent.
Occasionally someone looks at one of my
images and says, "Well, you were lucky to have gotten that close," or
"You were lucky to get that pose." I smile and agree. Luck, good
or bad, often does factor in. But spending countless hours in the
field after endlessly studying habitat, behavior, and biology outweighs
luck. I believe "chance favors the prepared mind."
4. Getting close to Birds:
Now comes the tough part. Most of the beginners who shoot birds often
end up saying; the bird looks so small in my entire frame. Looking at
my images they often ask me. Is your image heavily cropped? How do you
manage to get so close to the birds? There are different techniques
used to approach the birds at close range depending on the habitat and
the location of the birds. Let's take these one at a time.
Shooting from your vehicle:

The tripod mounted camera is fixed in the passenger's seat beside me

Here's another view from outside
- This is the most preferred approach to
shoot birds at ease when you are on the move. It's very difficult to
approach birds on foot.
- The moment they see a human being carrying this huge equipment and moving towards them, they just fly away.
- Whereas the birds are used to vehicles and are not afraid of them. Most of the birds I have shot are from my vehicle.
- I set the tripod and the camera on the
passenger's seat in the front of my vehicle, open the window and drive
around the country side. Many of the birds are perched onto the
bush/plant tops beside the road. When you see such a bird, approach the
bird slowly and position the vehicle so that you get the bird in your
viewfinder.
- If possible, switch off the engine. Switching off the vehicle is important as it causes vibration while shooting.
- While positioning your vehicle, watch
out for the direction of the sun. It should always be behind you and
directly falling on the bird. I'll discuss more on this in lighting.
Approaching the Birds slowly
This needs lots of patience and practice, but is simple if you get hold of it.
- Never run towards a bird when you see
them. I know it happens. You see a beautiful bird and you want to shoot
it. Normal tendency is to run towards it before it flies away. But that
running towards it causes it to fly away.
- Take a slow approach. This works best for birds which are pre-occupied, such as preening, feeding, sleeping or bathing.
- Once you spot a bird, keep your equipment in ready position to shoot.
- Avoid jerky motion or making noises. Lift the tripod and the camera and take slow steps towards the bird.
- Try to take a few record shots from a distance.
- While approaching the bird, try to stay low by bending at the knees.
- If the bird becomes alert or sounds its
alarm call, just freeze. Continue the approach only when the bird
becomes used to your presence.
- Look for natural formations that break your silhouette and use them.
- Never take direct approach at birds, rather go a bit round about hiding behind the bushes and trees till you get close to birds.
- The above works in well wooded areas but not in open.
- If you remain still for several minutes
after entering an open area, birds will return to their normal activity
and they get used to you.
- One important factor for approaching birds on foot is, ignore the bird and the bird will ignore you.
Lying low approach
The slow approach works best for perched birds either in open or in
wooded areas. But shooting shore birds or ground birds requires a
different technique. It's always advisable to shoot birds at eye level.

Shooting the Pipits and Wagtails using my bean bag and lying flat on the ground

Here's a close-up of my equipment on the my home made bean bag
Here are some tips:
- To shoot ground or shore birds, I always lie flat of the ground.
- If I don’t use a tripod, then I use my home made beanbag to rest my camera/lens to take support and shoot.
- While flat of the ground, I slowly crawl towards the bird pausing frequently.
- If you have a tripod, make the legs
completely flat to get eye level shots. Lift the tripod slowly, place
it in the front and crawl forward. This is a tedious approach, but
works well.
- Never stand up in open for ground or shore birds. This sudden movement scares the birds away.
- In many cases, images taken at bird's
eye level by lying flat on the ground are far more pleasing than those
taken from above as you get a soft out of focus background.
Low level photography using the tripod

Indian Courser - Took this image by lying flat on the ground
Shooting from Hide/Blinds:
This is the most effective way to get pleasing images with proper
composition and background. It if often impossible to shoot some
category of birds with the different approaches I have mentioned above.
This is most often used for shy birds. You have to do some homework for
this.
- Study the location and find out the perch frequented by birds.
- For birds like kingfishers, there are their droppings under the perch they frequent. Watch for these identifications.
- While setting up the blinds, check the background for any distractions. I'll talk more on this in composition.
- Try to place the blind near natural cover such as bushes in order to blend in with the surroundings better.
- Study the direction and angle of light before setting up the hide.
- It's better to set up the hide early in the morning and leave it for a couple of hours for the bird to get used to it.
- Be prepared to spend a few hours in the hide and carry some water and eatables as you never know when the birds will come.
- Don’t get disappointed if the bird never comes. After all, they don’t have appointment with us.
5. Lighting Conditions:
The other important factor in bird photography is the proper use of lighting.
- It is preferred for bird photography to shoot early and late in the evening.
- Avoid the harsh light at mid day.
- But then, rules are meant to be broken.
I have some pleasing images shot during the noon. You never know when
you get the opportunity to shoot a particular bird.
- In case there are shadows on the bird, try using fill flash.
- On overcast or cloudy days, you can
shoot throughout the day. But then, don’t expect the birds to be active
in this kind of weather.
- You can get beautiful silhouette of
birds during sunset. Hang out near a lake and position your self so
that the bird is between you and the sun.
- You can also try backlit images by
having the sun behind your subject. The rim lighting effect caused by
this has a beautiful effect on the image.
Little Grebe at Sunset - You can create magical images by making proper use of light
6. Exposure Techniques:
You may have the world's best equipment, but without understanding the
basics of exposure, your chances of getting a good photograph are
limited. An explanation on the basics of exposure is not in the scope
of this document. There are materials available on the internet and
books available to understand it. I suggest you refer to those
materials. However, I would like to provide some useful tips in
different situations for exposing your subject properly.
The below tips are for spot metering technique:
- For a middle tone bird (what we call as the 18% grey), meter the bird if possible and use that exposure.
- For large extremely white birds (egrets) meter the white part and open up 1 1/3 stop
- For lighter white birds, meter the bird and open up around 2/3 stop.
- For dark birds (coots, crows), meter the bird and stop down 1 or 1 1/3 stop
The below tips are for Center-Weighted technique:
- For a middle toned subject with a middle toned background, shoot as per the meter reading.
- For a dark subject with a middle toned background use +/12 or +2/3 stop.
- For a dark subject with a light background use +1 or + 1 1/3 stop
- For a dark subject with a fairly dark background use -1/3 or -1/2 stop
- For a light/white subject with a light background use + 2/3 or +1 stop
- For a light/white subject with a medium tones background, shoot as per the meter reading
- For a light/white subject with dark background use -1/3 or -1/2 stop
Whether you spot meter the subject or use
Center-Weighted technique, the idea is to place your subject at the
tonality you want it to be.
7. Image Composition and shooting:
Composition is the art of clearly presenting your creative vision in an
appealing manner. One of the most basic composition decisions is
whether the picture frame should have vertical or a horizontal
orientation. Once you have chosen a subject to photograph and decided
whether to take vertical or horizontal picture, you have two other
major decisions to make. First, how tightly or loosely should you frame
your subject? And then, where within your rectangle image frame do you
locate your subject.
Composition Tips:
- When a bird's image is small in the
frame, divide the entire frame into thirds both vertically and
horizontally. Place the bird at one of the four points of intersection.
This is called as the rule of thirds.
- If the bird is substantially large in
the frame, keep the bird out of the center of the frame. Place it in
such a way that you leave some space in front of the bird.
- It is always best to avoid photographing birds against cluttered backgrounds.
- When you are shooting a portrait of a large bird, try a vertical frame and place the eye at least half way up.
- Avoid distracting backgrounds by changing your position by slowly moving left/right or up/down.
- When positioning the bird, take care to
include the entire bird in the frame. There are times when I have
missed out tails in award winning images.
- Consider experimenting with birds and their reflections. Properly composed, reflections can create a striking photograph.
- Remember to leave a bit of room around
the reflection as well. When this is not possible due to the size of
the image in the frame, consider just cutting out the reflected image
entirely.
- One of the biggest advantages of using a good tripod is that it allows you to compose with precision. Always use a tripod.
- There are lots of bird photographs
available on the internet, magazines and other media shot by great
photographers. Study those pictures to learn on composition.
- Good composition is very subjective, and you want to please your self.
Green Bee-Eater - A Classic shot, but bad composition. Find the mistake
Shooting Tips:
- Always shoot at eye level of the bird.
- When the bird is in good light, wait for the bird to turn/move its head for you to get the catch light in the eye.
- Don't get satisfied too quickly.
- Photograph early, photograph late, take a nap during the day.
- Having the knowledge of bird behavior
can help you anticipate action. For example, a sleeping bird after
waking up normally tends to yawn and may stretch out its feather.
- To freeze the movement of birds or
birds in flight, or in action, try to use the fastest shutter speed
that lighting conditions and ISO will allow. I mostly shoot in Aperture
priority modes and open up the aperture completely to get the fastest
shutter speed for that ISO.
- Always be prepared; you never can tell when a bird decides to sit right in front of you.
- Try to shoot birds sitting on natural perches.
- Spot the bird and shoot before the bird sees you.
- While shooting in cold places like
North/North-East India, the batteries drain out too soon. Always carry
extra batteries and CF cards in the field.
- A portable storage device is very
useful in the field, when you want to transfer the images without using
a computer. That way, you can re-use the CF card.
- Its quite challenging to shoot birds in
low light (thick shoals and in wooded forests). Check your shutter
speed and change the ISO to a higher number to get the fastest speed,
after opening up the aperture to the maximum.
- While shooting birds (such as the
Cisticola) in grass land, it’s very difficult to get focus on birds
because of the obstructing grass. Try to anticipate where the bird will
pop up, keep that area pre-focused and chances are you will be able to
focus on the bird faster.
- Avoid shooting birds with the white sky
as background, unless it’s a rare species of bird or it’s once in a
lifetime opportunity. Photograph of birds against white sky looks pale
and bland.
- And a very important tip – Keep a watch
on your battery life and the number of shots left in your CF card.
Especially when you are approaching a bird, using any of the approach
methods discussed above. I have missed some great shots after
approaching the bird within few feet, either because my battery drained
out or my CF card became full.
- While shooting from the vehicle, switch off the engine. Engine vibration may result in poor, unsharp images.
- While shooting water birds around
lakes, try to hire a boat if available. You will be surprised how close
you can get to birds in a boat.
8. Making use of technology:
From an era where we had to wait for the slides to be processed and
developed for us to view the results, we have moved into a time where
we can preview the images immediately in the field after taking the
shot. The advantage of the digital cameras in the field of bird
photography has tremendously helped in taking better images. The
histogram displayed along with the image helps in deciding on the
exposure of the image. Looking at the histogram, I decide if the
exposure is correct or I need to do some compensation. I zoom in the
preview to check the sharpness of the image and if satisfied, I move on
to shoot the next subject.
The lens is the next important factor associated with technology. I
swear by the Canon IS (Image Stabilization) technology, which is same
as the VR (Vibration Reduction) in Nikon. It is supposed to give you
around 3 stops of shutter speed. i.e., if you are shooting at 1/30 sec,
then it is as if you are shooting at 1/120 sec. That’s a major
advantage for low light / shutter photography. Also, you can hand hold
some of the heavy lens and shoot momentarily if you have IS enabled. I
have done it a lot of time using my Canon 500mm EF f/4L IS lens and got
acceptably sharp images.
Next comes the camera bodies which have the different focusing modes –
One shot, AI Servo and AI Focus (Canon terminologies, please check
Nikon Manual for equivalent). One shot is for static subjects (sitting
birds), AI Servo is for moving subjects (birds in flight) and AI Focus
is for static subjects which may start to move (a sitting bird which
may take-off). AI Focus is most useful for birds in flight. You need to
enable all the focusing points in your camera and put the mode to AI
Focus. You will have better chances of shooting birds in flight in this
mode.
The higher Mega pixels DSLRs are the next boon for bird photographers.
A minimum of 6MP is good for bird photography. In case of scanned
slides, it is difficult to get good quality images if you close crop
the image to more than 30%. But in case of images got from 6+MP DSLR’s,
you can crop 80% of the frame and still get decent results. Many of the
images on my website are cropped images for magnification. You can even
compose the images while cropping, for better presentation. With a 6MP
digital camera, you can easily print good quality images of up to 20x30
inches (full frame images).
The 1.3, 1.5 or the 1.6 cropping factor in DSLR’s is an important
factor in case of Bird photography. My Canon 10D has a cropping factor
of 1.6x. That means, a 500mm lens mounted on my 10D camera becomes an
800mm lens. So, when I add a 1.4x TC, I get an equivalent of around
1200mm. That’s pretty good for Bird photography. We require a minimum
of 600mm focal length to shoot birds. But because of digital era, your
400mm becomes a 640mm and to add to that, you get decent images with
around 50% crop. So logically speaking, you can get a full frame 1200mm
image from your 400mm lens
The RAW format provided by the advanced Digital cameras is my pick in
the technology section. People who always shoot RAW know its power.
It’s called as the Digital Negative. You can change the white Balance,
image temperature setting, colour balance, gain + or - 2 stops of light
and a whole lot of other things without losing image quality. And all
these after you have shot the image. RAW format is a data file compared
to jpeg or tiff which is image file. When you make modifications to a
RAW file, you are actually changing the pixel value in the data file
which can be changed back to its original value. There are a lot of RAW
processing software such as C1, Photoshop (which has RAW plug-in),
Canon’s DPP, Nikon Capture etc. I always shoot in RAW format and have
my own Digital Workflow to get the final image.
Ok, now that we have shot great images using all the above mentioned
technologies, how do we actually present it to the viewer? That’s where
the image editing software’s comes into picture. You have Photoshop,
Gimp, Irfanview and a whole lot of image editing software available in
the market. The Photoshop’s Unsharp Mask (for sharpening the image) is
a major advantage in image processing. This improves the sharpness of
the image to a considerable amount compared to what you got from the
camera.
9. Do's and Don'ts in Bird Photography
- Learn and Understand Bird behavior. Know when not to interfere in their lifecycle.
- Use appropriate care while photographing birds. If the bird shows stress, move away.
- Never make sudden movements when you are close to a bird. This scares the bird away.
- Nest photography is a very delicate
matter. It's difficult to draw the line about what is right and wrong
when shooting nesting birds. Hence, in the interest of the bird's
safety, it is best to avoid nest photography.
- Birds are particularly vulnerable and
weak during their migratory period, during which they're traveling
extremely long distances, exhausting themselves nearly to the point of
death, and stopping off only to rest, refuel, and move on. Treat these
birds with respect and caution.
- Minimize your presence by keeping a low
profile, staying behind foliage or visual barriers as much as possible
and wearing camouflage or other appropriately subdued colors.
- Move slowly, keeping sudden movements to a minimum.
- Never cut or crop a perch just to make it look better. The same can be achieved through imaging software.
- Do not disturb the bird in anyway just to get an action shot.
- The advantages of being an ethical
photographer is that you will come away with natural looking
photographs, and the personal satisfaction of having captured an
intimate moment in a bird's life without causing it undue stress.
10. Finally the 3 P's
Though it’s easy to put down on paper on how to do bird
photography, its not as straight forward as it sounds. I have spent
countless hours in the field trying to get that image I have framed in
my mind and many times returned unsuccessful. I have waded through
water, walked through slush, crawled on the open ground, lied flat on
the ground for hours, climbed tress, ran across thorny shrubs, carried
my 10kg equipment for the whole day in the field and a lot more stuff –
just to get that one image. You really need to put in that hard work.
And when I look at the image I have got after struggling so much, I
feel it was worth it. Hence in bird photography, I have always believed
in the 3 P’s – Patience and Perseverance always Pays.
About the Author

Sudhir Shivaram is a software professional in
Bangalore who has recently begun his hobby of bird photography in
India. His photographs are already well-known and distinct in not
merely capturing bird species but also providing information on the
birds' behavior and habitat.
Sudhir is passionate about wildlife conservation and practices high
levels of ethics while photographing his subjects. He held a
photo-exhibition in Bangalore in 2004 titled "Fauna Around Bangalore"
which was featured prominently in the city's newspapers and TV
channels. Sudhir donated the proceeds to a conservation project. He
also holds photography classes regularly and donates the earnings to
various conservation causes.
Sudhir's association with ICWWG (Indian Cranes and Wetlands Working
Group) is recent. He has already donated many excellent images for use
in ICWWG fund-raising, educational material and volunteer manuals.
Sudhir hopes to travel to many crane destinations in India with ICWWG
to build a collection of images that can help in the conservation of
cranes and wetlands.
All of Sudhir’s work can be viewed on his webpage at http://www.thejunglelook.com
Sudhir Shivaram
Bangalore, India
e-mail: Sudhir@thejunglelook.com
visit: http://www.thejunglelook.com
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